Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Late Flight to Bangkok

Our friends Beau, Sara, Brittney, and Anna have gone. It was great to have friends from home visit (thanks for visiting guys), and it was even better to do a little sightseeing with them. But now they should be back in the US, and we are about to 出国(chu1 guo1), or leave the country ourselves. Because we need to leave China every three months to have our visa stamped, we are headed to Bangkok. The couple we are going to be staying with in Bangkok, are friends of friends. We have never actually met them before, but we have read their blog and they seem pretty cool. We know we are going to love them!

Thailand should prove to be an interesting place. Bangkok is the capital, and has a population of over eight million. It is 95 percent Buddhist, and has numerous Wats, or temple. One of which contains the largest statue of the Buddha in the world. The interesting thing about this statue is that it is laying down. Another intresting thing about Bangkok is that it has the river made famous by the destruction of its bridge in WWII, the river Kwai, which is a big tourist attraction. Bangkok is known as the Venice of the East becuase of an elaborate system of canals that run throughout the city. There are many animals that you can see there. They have elephants, tigers, and cobras on display in many places. I am looking forward to seeing the elephants and maybe doing some elephant trekking. Amanda is most looking forwad to getting out of the city and soaking up some rays on the beach. All in all, we are looking forward to our visa run to Thailand. We will keep you posted. - Frank

Thursday, April 2, 2009

A Ride in the Rain

It has rained everyday so far since we have begun our holiday. But once again, we are determined not to let that stop us. Today we rented bike and went for a ride. All of us made sure that we had ponchos so that we could stay as dry as possible. We set out with the hopes of seeing a few famous landmarks; moon hill, black Buddha cave, and the water cave. We did ride past the moon hill, but I was unable to get any good shots of it other than one with Amanda holding it in her hand. We couldn't find Black Buddha cave and we decided to pass on the water cave. I figured that taking my laptop in there would not be the wisest decision (we checked out of our hotel so I had it in my backpack). But the day was not a waste, we were able to see some spectacular sights. On the ride, we decided to take a side road an see the sights. It was well worth the diversion, becuase we seemed to be riding right beneath the hulking hills. On the way back however, we got caught in the rain. There is nothing worse than being in cold, clinging denim. - Frank
And when it rains on your parade, look up rather than down. Without the rain, there would be no rainbow.
G. K. Chesterton

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Above the Clouds - Longji

Once again, we awoke to a cold and rainy day. But that was not going to dampen my spirits because we were going to go to the world famous rice terraces at Longji. We had to take a three hour jaunt to get there, which was well worth it despite the day being overcast. Up until thirteen years ago, this area was not open to tourist, so until then, this village was living its life the same way that generations of their people had been before them. This generation though, has fully gotten into the tourism spirit. As soon as we got off of the bus, we were accosted by local women in the “native” garb, hocking knick-knacks, patty whacks, and other such junk. Everywhere you turned there was someone saying “hello, kan yi xia (take a look)” or "yao bu yao (do you want or not want)". They have a way of making you feel bad. It is as if they are saying just throw me a bone. They have even found a way to cash in on their fame. What are they famous for you might ask? Hair. They are in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the village with the longest hair. So, they put on a show that they charge 60 RMB for so that tourist can see their hair. We did not spend the extra money. I know it is surprising, but paying to see hair for some reason just didn’t interest me.
What did interest me though was the breath taking scenery that awaited us. Even on a foggy day like today, we were treated to spectacular views. I use the word breath taking on purpose, because to see the best views we had to hike up the mountain, and that hike could literally take your breath away. It truly felt like we were above the clouds. For those who are not up for the hike, there were “taxis” for hire. The taxis consisted of what looked like a bamboo rocking chair, strapped to two bamboo poles, carried by two local men. Because of the soreness of my knee, I was tempted to make use this native transport. Pride however, won out in the end.
At the midway point of our ascent, we stopped and ate lunch. One famous local cuisine is bamboo rice. They take a piece of bamboo, stuff it with rice, and cook it over an open flame. It is pretty good, but has a glutinous texture. We also had braised pumpkin (excellent), fired celery and pork, beef and mushrooms, and stir fried eggplant. After that hearty meal, we were ready for the rest of the climb.
Upon reaching the summit, the payoff for our efforts was well worth it. Words fail me when I try to think of a way to describe it. It is not just the view that is awe inspiring. It is also the knowledge that people have slowly over the centuries, etched their mark on the landscape that does nothing to detract, and only enhances the natural beauty. Knowing that it is upon hills such as these, that a third of the rice produced for the world is grown. It was such an amazing sight. What it must look like on a clear day. I thoroughly enjoyed our day above the clouds. - Frank

Slow Boat in China: Xing Ping Part 2

The first part of our river adventure was nice, but now for the rest of the story. Soon after we re-boarded our raft, our raft was broadsided by another raft. Our skiff was struck portside, aft end. It was kind of a surreal experience. One minute we were smiling and waving to passenger on another boat, the next moment we see a man wearing a three piece suit, standing at the tiller like Nelson at Trafalgar, aiming right for us. We could not believe he didn’t even try to turn. What did we do to him? Does he have a vendetta against waigouren? After the collision, he didn’t even check on us. He just restarted his engine and began to move on. Thanks to his ineptitude though, our engine cowling was caved in, and one of our PVC pontoons began taking on water. The captain of our boat called across the water to the guy in the suit and made him give us a tow back. If we thought before that we were on a slow boat before, we now really know what a slow boat is. - Frank

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Slow Boat in China: Xing Ping

This morning after breakfast, we took a forty minute bus ride to Xing Ping. We were going to rent bicycles and take a two hour bike tour there, but once again the weather decided not to cooperate. It was rainy and cold, so we opted for the quicker and dryer jaunt instead. On the ride there, I sat next to a math teacher from Beijing. While I was reviewing flash cards, she made it her personal quest to help me improve my Chinese. Every time I would look at a card and hesitate, she would start giving me examples and sentences to jog my memory. I guess she didn’t realize that you can’t jog something loose that wasn’t there from the start or if my Chinese is not good enough to recognize the simple characters on the cards, then the complex sentences that she kept throwing at me were not likely going to help too much. Oh well, I will take help in any form it comes.
When we pulled into Xing Ping, a big group of locals came running up to the bus when they saw that there were foreigners on it. They thought that they had a group of easy marks to finagle out of some money. They were in for a big disappointment though, because the owners of the hotel we are staying at arranged our tour for us, and they included a guide to meet us at the bus stop. Our guides shooed them away, and we were off to the dock for our ride up the Li River.
The ad that we read about the Li River tour stated that we would tour the river on bamboo rafts. Instead of the bamboo that we were expecting, our raft’s pontoons were made of six inch PVC pipes. They strapped ten of them together, overlaid half inch plywood for a floor, made a roof of iron frame covered by plastic tarp, and finally attached a small lawn mower engine to a combination rudder/propeller to power the contraption. The passengers berth consisted of three bamboo benches (so there was actually some bamboo involved) placed upon the deck underneath the tarp. Talk about “do it yourself”. There is an old saying about taking a slow boat to China. Well, it seems that we had found it.
As we meandered slowly up river, we were treated to a magnificent view. In an earlier post, I said that these hills looked like the work of a giant sculpture. As we drifted along, seeing the various rock formations, my mind kept flashing back to a scene from the sci-fi classic movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind. A famous scene in that movie shows Richard Dryfuss sitting at the dinner table with his family. His wife puts mashed potatoes in front of him, and he is suddenly seized by an urgent desire to sculpt. He piles the entire bowl of potatoes onto his plate. Then, using his fork, knife, and spoon as his sculpting tools, he carves a monolith similar to the ones that we have been seeing. When he realizes that his entire family is watching him intently, he stops, looks ups, and says poignantly “This means something!” So as we floated along on the Li River, in the midst of beauty so striking that the Chinese people have taken to naming each formation with descriptive names like Dragons Creeping out of a Cave, Lotus Petal Suspended Upside Down, and Nine Horses Mural Hill, I kept thinking to myself “This means something!”
When we reached the midpoint of our river journey, we disembark our surprisingly sturdy raft at a small island populated with various vendors. Amanda decided to eat some tiny river crabs that had been deep fried. There was a fisherman with his trained cormorants. He uses these bird to catch fish. He first ties a string around their throat so that they cannot swallow, and then they dive beneath the surface and catch fish in their mouths. Since they cannot swallow, once they are back on the boat, they have to disgorge the captured fish into the fisherman’s live well. This may seem unfair, but the interesting thing is that the cormorants keep count. If they don’t get to eat after catching seven fish, they stop fishing. So it is not as much slavery as indentured servitude. – Frank

Roy Neary: [contemplating the lump shape] This means something. This is important.
PS – I will post more about this excursion later.

Weird Injury

Before I tell you what happened, I want to give you a little perspective. A few years ago, baseball slugger Sammy Sosa injured himself and was unable to play for several weeks, after sneezing. Another disciple of the sweet science, this time Joel Zumaya of the Detroit Tigers, injured his forearm playing the video game "Guitar Hero" (No Stairway to Heaven!). John Smotlz, former pitcher of the Atlanta Braves, once burnt his chest ironing his shirt. How did he do that? He was wearing it at the time! I tell you all of this just so that you can understand that injuries happen, even to the best of athletes.

Yesterday when we checked into our hotel, I went into the restroom to check it out. As I stepped into it, there was a slight step-down. I wasn't paying attention, so I somehow hyper-extended my knee. I didn't think much of it at the time, so we went out and walked all day. Upon coming back to the room, I realized that my knee was swollen. Can you believe it? Hurt walking into a bathroom! But unlike those other athletes, I will play through the pain. We have sight seeing to do. - Frank
Baseball is 90% mental, the other half is physical.
Yogi Berra

Monday, March 30, 2009

Li River Mud Snails

For those of you who don’t know. I love escargot. For many the thought of eating snails varies. It can range from like to love or to mild uneasiness to disgust. Although I am not really an adventurous eater, I tried escargot several years ago. I found that contrary to the widely held belief, they are not slimy and have amazing flavor. When I found them on the menu here in Yangshuo, I ordered them with only the slightest hesitation. The only reason I gave the slightest pause was not because they were snails, but because they were called mud snails. But I thought to myself “When they translate things, often they get something wrong. They can’t really mean mud snails”. Well, that turned out to be a false assumption. They had to mean mud snails because French style escargot these were not. The first one I ate had several small hard things inside that tasted like dirt. I found out later that they were actually baby snails. That never happens when prepared the French style. I guess that’s what happens when I expect to get French food in China. - Frank


Nobody is sure how this got started. Probably a couple of French master chefs were standing around one day, and they found a snail, and one of them said: 'I bet that if we called this something like "escargot," tourists would eat it.' They they had a hearty laugh, because 'escargot' is the French word for 'fat crawling bag of phlegm.' - Dave Barry