Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Late Flight to Bangkok
Thursday, April 2, 2009
A Ride in the Rain
“And when it rains on your parade, look up rather than down. Without the rain, there would be no rainbow.”
G. K. Chesterton
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Above the Clouds - Longji
Once a
gain, we awoke to a cold and rainy day. But that was not going to dampen my spirits because we were going to go to the world famous rice terraces at Longji. We had to take a three hour jaunt to get there, which was well worth it despite the day being overcast. Up until thirteen years ago, this area was not open to tourist, so until then, this village was living its life the same way that generations of their people had been before them. This generation though, has fully gotten into the tourism spirit. As soon as we got off of the bus, we were accosted by local women in the “native” garb, hocking knick-knacks, patty whacks, and other such junk. Everywhere you turned there was someone saying “hello, kan yi xia (take a look)” or "yao bu yao (do you want or not want)". They have a way of making you feel bad. It is as if they are saying just throw me a bone. They have even found a way to cash in on their fame. What are they famous for you might ask? Hair. They are in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the village with the longest hair. So, they put on a show that they charge 60 RMB for so that tourist can see their hair. We did not spend the extra money. I know it is surprising, but paying to see hair for some reason just didn’t interest me.
What did interest me though was the breath taking scenery that awaited us. Even on a foggy day like today, we were treated to spectacular views. I use the word breath taking on purpose, because to see the best views we had to hike up the mountain, and that hike could literally take your breath away. It truly felt like we were above the clouds. For those who are not up for the hike, there were “taxis” for hire. The taxis consisted of what looked like a bamboo rocking chair, strapped to two bamboo poles, carried by two local men. Because of the soreness of my knee, I was tempted to make use this native transport. Pride however, won out in the end.
At the midway point of our ascent, we stopped and ate lunch. One famous local cuisine is bamboo rice. They take a piece of bamboo, stuff it with rice, and cook it over an open flame. It is pretty good, but has a glutinous texture. We also had braised pumpkin (excellent), fired celery and pork, beef and mushrooms, and stir fried eggplant. After that hearty meal, we were ready for the rest of the climb.
Upon reaching the summit, the payoff for our efforts was well worth it. Words fail me when I try to think of a way to describe it. It is not just the view that is awe inspiring. It is also the knowledge that people have slowly over the centuries, etched their mark on the landscape that does nothing to detract, and only enhances the natural beauty. Knowing that it is upon hills such as these, that a third of the rice produced for the world is grown. It was such an amazing sight. What it must look like on a clear day. I thoroughly enjoyed our day above the clouds. - Frank










What did interest me though was the breath taking scenery that awaited us. Even on a foggy day like today, we were treated to spectacular views. I use the word breath taking on purpose, because to see the best views we had to hike up the mountain, and that hike could literally take your breath away. It truly felt like we were above the clouds. For those who are not up for the hike, there were “taxis” for hire. The taxis consisted of what looked like a bamboo rocking chair, strapped to two bamboo poles, carried by two local men. Because of the soreness of my knee, I was tempted to make use this native transport. Pride however, won out in the end.
At the midway point of our ascent, we stopped and ate lunch. One famous local cuisine is bamboo rice. They take a piece of bamboo, stuff it with rice, and cook it over an open flame. It is pretty good, but has a glutinous texture. We also had braised pumpkin (excellent), fired celery and pork, beef and mushrooms, and stir fried eggplant. After that hearty meal, we were ready for the rest of the climb.
Upon reaching the summit, the payoff for our efforts was well worth it. Words fail me when I try to think of a way to describe it. It is not just the view that is awe inspiring. It is also the knowledge that people have slowly over the centuries, etched their mark on the landscape that does nothing to detract, and only enhances the natural beauty. Knowing that it is upon hills such as these, that a third of the rice produced for the world is grown. It was such an amazing sight. What it must look like on a clear day. I thoroughly enjoyed our day above the clouds. - Frank
Slow Boat in China: Xing Ping Part 2
The first part of our river adventure was nice, but now for the rest of the story. Soon after we re-boarded our raft, our raft was broadsided by another raft. Our skiff was struck portside, aft end. It was kind of a surreal experience. One minute we were smiling and waving to passenger on another boat, the next moment we see a man wearing a three piece suit, standing at the tiller like Nelson at Trafalgar, aiming right for us. We could not believe he didn’t even try to turn. What did we do to him? Does he have a vendetta against waigouren? After the collision, he didn’t even check on us. He just restarted his engine and began to move on. Thanks to his ineptitude though, our engine cowling was caved in, and one of our PVC pontoons began taking on water. The captain of our boat called across the water to the guy in the suit and made him give us a tow back. If we thought before that we were on a slow boat before, we now really know what a slow boat is. - Frank
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Slow Boat in China: Xing Ping
When we pulled into Xing Ping, a big group of locals came running up to the bus when they saw that there were foreigners on it. They thought that they had a group of easy marks to finagle out of some money. They were in for a big disappointment though, because the owners of the hotel we are staying at arranged our tour for us, and they included a guide to meet us at the bus stop. Our guides shooed them away, and we were off to the dock for our ride up the Li River.
The ad that we read about the Li River tour stated that we would tour the river on bamboo rafts. Instead of the bamboo that we were expecting, our raft’s pontoons were made of six inch PVC pipes. They strapped ten of them together, overlaid half inch plywood for a floor, made a roof of iron frame covered by plastic tarp, and finally attached a small lawn mower engine to a combination rudder/propeller to power the contraption. The passengers berth consisted of three bamboo benches (so there was actually some bamboo involved) placed upon the deck underneath the tarp. Talk about “do it yourself”. There is an old saying about taking a slow boat to China. Well, it seems that we had found it.
As we meandered slowly up river, we were treated to a magnificent view. In an earlier post, I said that these hills looked like the work of a giant sculpture. As we drifted along, seeing the various rock formations, my mind kept flashing back to a scene from the sci-fi classic movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind. A famous scene in that movie shows Richard Dryfuss sitting at the dinner table with his family. His wife puts mashed potatoes in front of him, and he is suddenly seized by an urgent desire to sculpt. He piles the entire bowl of potatoes onto his plate. Then, using his fork, knife, and spoon as his sculpting tools, he carves a monolith similar to the ones that we have been seeing. When he realizes that his entire family is watching him intently, he stops, looks ups, and says poignantly “This means something!” So as we floated along on the Li River, in the midst of beauty so striking that the Chinese people have taken to naming each formation with descriptive names like Dragons Creeping out of a Cave, Lotus Petal Suspended Upside Down, and Nine Horses Mural Hill, I kept thinking to myself “This means something!”
When we reached the midpoint of our river journey, we disembark our surprisingly sturdy raft at a small island populated with various vendors. Amanda decided to eat some tiny river crabs that had been deep fried. There was a fisherman with his trained cormorants. He uses these bird to catch fish. He first ties a string around their throat so that they cannot swallow, and then they dive beneath the surface and catch fish in their mouths. Since they cannot swallow, once they are back on the boat, they have to disgorge the captured fish into the fisherman’s live well. This may seem unfair, but the interesting thing is that the cormorants keep count. If they don’t get to eat after catching seven fish, they stop fishing. So it is not as much slavery as indentured servitude. – Frank
Roy Neary: [contemplating the lump shape] This means something. This is important.
PS – I will post more about this excursion later.
PS – I will post more about this excursion later.
Weird Injury
Before I tell you what happened, I want to give you a little perspective. A few years ago, baseball slugger Sammy Sosa injured himself and was unable to play for several weeks, after sneezing. Another disciple of the sweet science, this time Joel Zumaya of the Detroit Tigers, injured his forearm playing the video game "Guitar Hero" (No Stairway to Heaven!). John Smotlz, former pitcher of the Atlanta Braves, once burnt his chest ironing his shirt. How did he do that? He was wearing it at the time! I tell you all of this just so that you can understand that injuries happen, even to the best of athletes.
Yesterday when we checked into our hotel, I went into the restroom to check it out. As I stepped into it, there was a slight step-down. I wasn't paying attention, so I somehow hyper-extended my knee. I didn't think much of it at the time, so we went out and walked all day. Upon coming back to the room, I realized that my knee was swollen. Can you believe it? Hurt walking into a bathroom! But unlike those other athletes, I will play through the pain. We have sight seeing to do. - Frank
Baseball is 90% mental, the other half is physical.
Yogi Berra
Yesterday when we checked into our hotel, I went into the restroom to check it out. As I stepped into it, there was a slight step-down. I wasn't paying attention, so I somehow hyper-extended my knee. I didn't think much of it at the time, so we went out and walked all day. Upon coming back to the room, I realized that my knee was swollen. Can you believe it? Hurt walking into a bathroom! But unlike those other athletes, I will play through the pain. We have sight seeing to do. - Frank
Baseball is 90% mental, the other half is physical.
Yogi Berra
Monday, March 30, 2009
Li River Mud Snails
Nobody is sure how this got started. Probably a couple of French master chefs were standing around one day, and they found a snail, and one of them said: 'I bet that if we called this something like "escargot," tourists would eat it.' They they had a hearty laugh, because 'escargot' is the French word for 'fat crawling bag of phlegm.' - Dave Barry
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